Hoogan Et Beaufort 20230809 194649b

Published on August 21, 2023

Prix restaurateur : Le Cuisinomane visits Kebec Club Privé, Les Mal-Aimés, Baumier, Hoogan et Beaufort and Le Hatley

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Tommy Dion, food critic and founder of the blog Le Cuisinomane, traveled across Quebec to discover the 15 restaurants nominated for the 2023 Aliments du Québec au menu Restaurateur Award. He dined at each establishment to explore their cuisine and stories, and to witness their dedication and commitment to promoting local ingredients and artisans.

His first stops: Kebec Club Privé (Quebec City), Les Mal-Aimés (Estrie), Baumier – Bar à vin (Laurentides), Hoogan et Beaufort (Montreal), and Le Hatley (Estrie).

Kebec Club Privé

Capitale-Nationale

767 rue St-Joseph Est, Québec (QC), G1K 3C6

 

Kebec Club Privé is led not only by masterful hands, but also by a deep commitment to local sourcing. While the precision, finesse, execution, and storytelling found in every dish are undeniably impressive, the work begins long before guests arrive at the table.

Weeks, even months, in advance, chef-owners Pierre-Olivier Pelletier and Cassandre Osterroth personally forage many of the ingredients they use throughout the year, including sweetgrass, sweet clover, goldenrod, wild roses, and oxeye daisy buds. What stood out most to me was how education is woven into the experience, from the ingredients and producers to the techniques behind each dish. My favourite course of the evening was the lobster, prepared in two distinct ways. This may be a small restaurant, but it makes a big contribution to showcasing Québec's culinary identity.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 Kebec Club Prive

Les Mal-Aimés

Estrie

429 route 253, Cookshire-Eaton (QC), J0B 1M0

 

Les Mal-Aimés offers a unique farm-to-table dining experience featuring a 10-course tasting menu. Chefs Daniel Charbonneau and Yannick Côté showcase fruits and vegetables grown on-site, especially the “mal-aimés” (the overlooked and underappreciated varieties), alongside the finest local products from the region, all prepared over a wood fire.

Their commitment to local sourcing goes far beyond ingredients. Not only are lemons absent from the kitchen, but so are pepper, olive oil, avocados, and any fish or seafood not harvested from Québec waters. I was particularly impressed by the duck tartare, the best tartare I tasted all year, loosely inspired by Kifto, a traditional Ethiopian dish. The finely minced duck was emulsified with duck fat and elevated with a blackcurrant leaf sauce. A small pillow of house-made cheese and a braised cabbage roll completed the dish, making for a meal that was both deeply satisfying and incredibly fun to eat. A visit to Les Mal-Aimés is a delicious change of scenery and a remarkable celebration of Québec's terroir.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 Les Mal Aimes

Baumier bar à vin

Laurentides

695A Chemin Avila, Piedmont (QC), J0R 1R3

 

When I read a menu, I like to know what time of year it is and where I am in the world. To me, that is the first clue to a restaurant’s values and culinary philosophy. At Baumier – Bar à vin, that sense of place and season is present all year long.

The menu captures the essence of summer in July and offers comfort in February. In autumn, it takes guests into the forest through wild mushrooms; in spring, it celebrates fiddleheads, the eagerly awaited first green vegetable of the season. Young and exceptionally talented chef Arianne Faucher fully embraces the flavours of the Laurentians, showcasing ingredients such as cedar, sea rocket, daylily, fir, and cattail hearts. Her cuisine is deeply personal, sometimes bold, but always confident and purposeful. The result is a dining experience that is both beautiful and delicious—a true expression of the region and its seasons.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 Baumier

Hoogan et Beaufort

Montréal

4095 rue Molson, Montréal (QC), H1Y 3L1

 

After eight years in operation, it is clear that Hoogan et Beaufort has established itself as one of Québec’s great dining destinations. Over the years, chef Marc-André Jetté has built an outstanding team in both the kitchen and dining room, achieving the perfect balance between refinement and approachability.

The restaurant delivers dishes of exceptional quality alongside service worthy of the finest establishments, all within a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. No visit feels complete without one of the house-made pasta dishes, which consistently showcase the best seasonal ingredients. During my visit, the combination of chanterelle mushrooms, corn, and shishito peppers was executed with remarkable precision. Gaspé lobster, halibut, duck, pork, and vegetables from local farms also regularly take centre stage on the menu. This is a cuisine that celebrates not only the seasons, but also the remarkable diversity and quality of Québec products.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 Hoogan Beaufort

Le Hatley

Estrie

575 rue Hovey, North Hatley (QC), J0B 2C0

 

Running a hotel restaurant comes with its share of challenges. With a clear sense of purpose, chef Alexandre Vachon has chosen to guide Le Hatley with both intelligence and elegance. Building relationships with regional artisans and producers was one of his first priorities, and today, that commitment is clearly paying off.

On the plate, it translates into a celebration of the seasons and local ingredients: duck egg elevated with a scallop sabayon and caviar from Lac Saint-Pierre, expertly prepared coquelet ballotine paired with a nostalgic combination of peas and mushrooms and finished with a suprême sauce, sea buckthorn showcased in both savoury and sweet expressions, duck, and more. Each dish reflects a thoughtful celebration of the region’s seasons and the richness of Québec’s ingredients.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 Le Hatley

Savor Quebec for every occasion!

Discover the full list of restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program for showcasing local Quebec products in their kitchens. There’s something for every taste and occasion, across the entire province! Click here >>

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