Ile Flottante Le Cuisinomane 2023 09 1000028136 CARRE

Published on September 15, 2023

Prix restaurateur `Le Cuisinomane visits Restaurant 1668, Le Géraldine, Le Presbytère, La Traite and Île Flottante

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Tommy Dion, food critic and founder of the blog Le Cuisinomane, traveled across Quebec to discover the 15 restaurants nominated for the Prix restaurateur Aliments du Québec au menu 2023. He sat down at each of them to explore their cuisine and their story, and to observe their efforts and commitment to showcasing local foods and the artisans behind them.

His final five stops: Restaurant 1668 (Chaudière-Appalaches), Le Géraldine (Laurentides), Le Presbytère (Mauricie), La Traite (Capitale-Nationale), and Île Flottante (Montréal).

Le Géraldine

Laurentides

163 rue Saint-Eustache, Saint-Eustache (QC), J7R 2L5

What a pleasure it is to dine at Le Géraldine! This bring-your-own-wine restaurant in Saint-Eustache strikes a remarkable balance between boldness and tradition, as well as indulgence and refinement, offering guests an experience that feels both inspired and deeply personal.

Chef Olivier Robillard takes his role as an ambassador for local ingredients to heart, showcasing them proudly both on the menu and in each plate. Thanks to close relationships with several producers and artisans, his menu offers a sincere reflection of the season. With tuna season in full swing in Gaspésie in early September, he presents it in two ways as part of the tasting menu: first as sashimi with shiitake mushrooms marinated in plum juice, and then as a tartare seasoned with a house-made sambal oelek condiment.

This is followed by a beautifully composed ostrich tartare, elevated with marinated chanterelles, immature elderflower capers, cattail hearts, and a green mustard emulsion, served with a crisp cracker made with hemp oil and Gorria pepper. The morels agnolotti were equally outstanding, as was the final savoury course: venison striploin with a flawless fermented blueberry sauce and fir shoots.

A truly memorable dining experience, well done!

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Restaurant 1668

Chaudière-Appalaches

18255 Boulevard Lacroix, Saint-Georges (QC), G5Y 5B8

In Saint-Georges, in the Chaudière-Appalaches region, the restaurant 1668, whose name refers to the surface area of Québec’s territory, celebrates local ingredients with a distinctly French-inspired approach. Chef-owner Ariel Cardinal-Petit is deeply committed to honouring both his culinary background and the richness of the region’s food culture.

Each plate reflects clear intention and craftsmanship, adding an extra layer of meaning to the dining experience. I particularly enjoyed the creative take on broccoli, prepared in multiple forms (royal, court-bouillon poached, and fried), served within a flavourful consommé of pearl garlic enriched with beef fat, bringing a welcome depth and richness.

Another standout dish of the evening was the marinated Gaspésie halibut paired with shishito peppers, some blanched and others fried, along with a well-balanced, gently spiced chili seed mayonnaise. Absolutely outstanding.

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La Traite – Restaurant de l’Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations

Capitale-Nationale

5 Place de la Rencontre, Wendake, (QC) G0A 4V0

Chef Marc de Passorio arrived at La Traite after working in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and New Zealand. His goal is twofold: to highlight Québec’s local ingredients and to pay tribute to Indigenous culinary traditions. Hunting, fishing, and foraging are all reinterpreted through his own creative lens.

The lobster cooked in blueberry gin and lightly cold-smoked to order is a nod to the lobster fishery of Natashquan, where crustaceans were traditionally cooked over driftwood fires upon the fishermen’s return. Corn, one of the Indigenous “Three Sisters,” is showcased in several ways: as a creamy corn purée with sunflower seeds, hazelnut oil and agastache popcorn, as a textured base beneath marinated scallops, and as flour used in the bannock bread.

This is also a destination for game meat. During my visit, both bison and venison were featured on the menu.

AQM Prix Resto 2023 Cuisinomane Blogue 800x800 La Traite

Microbrasserie Le Presbytère

Mauricie

1360 rue Principale, Saint-Stanislas-de-Champlain (QC),
G0X 3E0

Set in the former presbytery of Saint-Stanislas-de-Champlain, built in 1873, chef Isabelle Dupuis and business partner, brewer, and life partner Francis Boisvert have established Microbrasserie Le Presbytère with a clear mission: to offer a unique experience that blends both culinary and brewing craftsmanship.

Working closely with regional producers and guided by a shared passion for foraging, the menu reflects a deep connection to the land: Labrador tea, venison, alpaca, Appalachian truffle, sea buckthorn, sweet clover, and an array of wild forest mushrooms, the chef’s specialty.

On Fridays and Saturdays, the “Acte de Foi” tasting menu becomes a true culinary journey full of surprises. I have to admit, it even took me out of my comfort zone at times.

Highlights included a sea snail fritter inspired by takoyaki, venison gravlax with spruce powder and birch syrup, orzotto with pinewood nard and burdock purée, and cabbage stuffed with shredded seal. One of the standout dishes of the evening, however, was the bi-coloured tagliatelle with halibut and scallops, enhanced with sautéed wild mushrooms and Appalachian truffles.

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Île Flottante

Montréal

174-176 Rue St-Viateur Ouest, Montréal (QC), H2T 2L3

Colourful, flavourful, and full of discovery, the experience offered at Île Flottante is sure to delight even the most curious epicureans.

At the helm is Chef Sean Murray Smith, known for his intellectual, artistic, and highly innovative approach to cuisine. From the very first course, guests are immersed in his creative universe: a veal and beet tartare supported by three distinct sauces, an emulsion of mustard, a rice milk-based sauce, and a chive oil.

The experience unfolds as a true exploration of texture, beginning and ending on the same note: fried kale, poached radish wedges as well as thin pickled slices, celtuce ribbons (also known as asparagus lettuce), and endive leaves. The pleasure lies in composing each bite, layering textures, and discovering new flavour combinations. It is a true playground for the senses, continuing through five more courses. Vegetarian and vegan guests are equally invited to fully immerse themselves in the chef’s world.

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Savor Quebec for every occasion!

Discover the full list of restaurants recognized by the Aliments du Québec au menu program for showcasing local Quebec products in their kitchens. There’s something for every taste and occasion, across the entire province! Click here >>

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